Sunday, 18 May 2014

Modelling for Mrs Cameron- The Angel in the House

Dearest Em,

Commonplace, aristocrat, Queen, it was all the same to Mrs Cameron. Maids became Madonna's- example in this case- Mary Hillier- her maid- known locally as Mary Madonna- along with local fisherman's son Freddy Gould.


This 'coloring-in' Em, taken from a photograph Julia entitled Cupid and Psyche' depicts two of her favourite victims dated 1866. Around this time- and referenced by her, was a popular poem by friend and Freshwater Circle compatriot- Coventry Patmore;

Man must be pleased; but him to please
Is woman's pleasure; down the gulf
Of his condoled necessities
She casts her best, she flings herself.
How often flings for nought, and yokes
Her heart to an icicle or whim,
Whose each impatient word provokes
Another, not from her, but him;
While she, too gentle even to force
His penitence by kind replies,
Waits by, expecting his remorse,
With pardon in her pitying eyes;
And if he once, by shame oppress'd,
A comfortable word confers,
She leans and weeps against his breast,
And seems to think the sin was hers;
Or any eye to see her charms,
At any time, she's still his wife,
Dearly devoted to his arms;
She loves with love that cannot tire;
And when, ah woe, she loves alone,
Through passionate duty love springs higher,
As grass grows taller round a stone.

First published without much acclaim in 1854- its revision in 1862 became a hit- and for us females is difficult reading today, post-Suffragette, 60's feminism, and the Virginia Woolf-ness reaction in-between- but remember for now Em, how these submissive principles were the Establishment. Economically Women didn't exist without men to support them, socially they were often ruined without them- unless they died which they often did. 

Virginia Woolf reacted against these principles- even to the extent in writing in 1931 that "killing the Angel in the House was part of the occupation of a woman writer."

However, my precious, how much was this priveledged doyenne of the Bloomsbury Set- inspired by the very generation she rebelled against?

I shall use chapter and verse from Julia Margaret Cameron's Women to encapsulate my point-

On the Isle of Wight, nineteenth-century England's equivalent of Martha's Vineyard, where artists lived to get away from bustle and ended up bringing bustle in their wake, Julia Margaret Cameron, in one of the greatest outpourings of creativity in the history of art, went about for a decade discovering beauty in her family and friends and the working men and women around her, hauling people into her "studio," a converted hen coop, and making of their bodily forms immortal images.
It was the immortal within them she responded to. She had little interest in sociological data, details of clothing, tools of trades. When she looked at a domestic servant with a mop and bucket, her imagination erased the mop and bucket, covered the homespun clothing with swaths of drapery, and saw the woman as the current exemplar of some timeless, enduring type - a youthful May Queen or noble Madonna, a suffering Ophelia, a sinning Guinevere, a sainted wife, devoted daughter, grieving mother, or wild spirited wood-nymph.
For her mental store of archetypal personae she drew on eclectic sources: the Old Testament, the New Testament, Greek mythology Renaissance painting, and the classics of English literature - Shakespeare, Milton, Keats, Shelley, Byron, and Coleridge. She had the words of the Romantic poets in her head as we might have the lyrics of songs by the Beatles. Many of the most popular writers of the day were her friends, including Coventry Patmore, who, in singing the praises of "The Angel in the House," codified the Victorian ideal of domesticity, and Alfred Tennyson, who, among other achievements, gave new life to the heroines of Arthurian legend.
She had received no formal education, which was typical for women of her time. Yet she was better read than many of us with graduate degrees. If we cannot reproduce her literary culture, if our minds' mansions are furnished, instead of with stanzas by Milton and Shakespeare, with episodes of favorite television shows, can we understand or fully respond to her photographs?
Every now and then a creative artist is inspired by other art which may be unfamiliar to readers or viewers. James Joyce, for example, based the structure and many episodes of Ulysses on Homer's Odyssey. An acquaintance with the story of Odysseus's wanderings may or may not enrich a reading of Ulysses, but the older work's greatest contribution to Joyce's epic, I would suggest, lies in enabling him to write it in the first place. It powered his imagination. It allowed him to see the life of ordinary people like Leopold Bloom, in an ignoble time like the turn of the century, in a provincial city like Dublin, as connected to enduring patterns of human life and therefore as material for art.
Cameron's response to beauty, eradicating class as it did, was so extreme as to constitute an almost political statement. Her tableaux are parables of radical democracy, or, seen from a slightly different angle, real-life fairy tales: in Cameron's glass house, Cinderella is always becoming a princess. Her parlor maid, Mary Hillier, was so often released from household drudgery to pose as the Virgin that she was known locally as Mary Madonna.
Like other artists of the early twentieth century, Woolf was in creative rebellion against a parental culture which to her seemed stuffy and stifling. But if we look with unprejudiced eyes at the literary culture of Julia Margaret Cameron, it hardly looks stifling. Quite the opposite. The rich, eclectic, thoroughly Victorian mixture of literary and pictorial images stored in Cameron's mind stimulated her to dense achievement, hundreds of works in a career of little over ten years, as the Madonnas and May Queens, the Wise Virgins and Foolish Virgins, the wood nymphs and angels in her mind were brought forth through darkness and light onto paper. And if we look, as this exhibition asks us to do, at the photographs of the fair women without the famous men, what we see is how splendidly the women stand on their own.

And my dear Emily, as a visual case-en-pointe- here is a 'colouring-in' of Julia's son's fiancee. No Angel-in-the-House here as a muse- more a poetical androgyny- or even pilgrim as muse...



Lucky Virginia- both blessed and cursed by her own nature and her anscestry- owes more than she or history has credited to her life's work, and it's impact on life as we know it- that Great Aunt Julia played a central role!

Looking forwards to Annabel's Christening in a few weeks time. She has a cheeky smile Em- and lovely giggle. Your Dad used to display the same sort of appreciation of what went on around him!

Your ever-loving Grand-Mother,

GiGi xxxx 

Saturday, 10 May 2014

Post Dramatic Dress-Disorder

Dearest Emily,

It was lovely to see you and Annabel yesterday, and I did enjoy our practising yoga together! As I rushed off to the station to get the train up to London- I caught sight of myself in a shop window. I had thought about what I was going to wear today (changeable weather, two days in London, small overnight bag= one of my new t-shirts, oversized lightweight shirt, old Weardowney fave knitted jacket, my smartest jeans and trusty practical/smart boots.) However- what I saw in the window's reflection was a dishevelled GiGi, post playing with her Grand-daughter and laden with bags.

This didn't overly concern me Em, it's a regular observation- and one in my case there is not much point fighting. I do intend to be smartly turned out- I love seeing other people do so. It's just that I rather get in the way of my own objective. Doesn't matter what occasion it is- I just cannot stay tidy! My hair gets tucked behind my ears- my lipstick rubs off- high heels get removed as soon as comfort beckons. My own answer to this habit- is to at least start the day by making the effort- and then not worry about the undoing.

If you had seen what I saw in the shop window, and been at my side- it would have looked something like this!


Yes Em, I know- it's not a giant leap of faith to see why I'm drawn to appreciating those who uphold my own messy traits. Our Mrs Cameron (pictured as I believe Lewis Carroll cariacatured her) was forever shawl and bonnet-trailing- and even covered with photographic chemicals (hah, that makes me tidy!) And here is another heroine- we've spoken about her before- Rosa Lewis of Cavendish Hotel and Castle Rock in Cowes-fame.


Here she is in a painting by Chile Guevara. At work- as a Cook (favoured by Edward V11 and the Edwardian noblesse) and Doyenne of the Cavendish Hotel in Jermyn St- she liked to wear white. From head-to-toe. Or black. And she had a knee length strand of amber beads ('me yellers') that clanked as she walked.
However- I like to think she was one of 'us' in the messy sense- this example from the Duchess of Jermyn St by Daphne Fielding...
Rosa's excursions from the Cavendish into the outside world often took the form of an assault, for she ignored such trifles as invitations.
Most of all she liked making an impromptu visit to Covent Garden at five in the morning with a cavalcade.
The sight of evening dress in the early morning market is something that has quite disappeared; but in those days Covent Garden porters were quite used to these elegant intrusions. Rosa would often be in bed and asleep, but to take her to buy flowers had become traditional and so she would be woken up.
She wasted no time in dressing and used to slip her sable coat over her nightdress, which trailed behind her, sweeping up old cabbage leaves and broken blossoms in its passage.

One of my own reasons for making Rosa one of our Red Queens though Em, was right here on the Isle of Wight. Having established herself as a self-styled Grande Dame- all the way from Walthamstow-via the kitchen, and into or rather on top of the society she served- she decided to buy a little holiday-home.
This was in Cowes- and was named Castle Rock. It just happened to be next door to the Royal Yacht Squadron. There, she set up Court- with paying guests a-tow, her clique sitting in the little summer-house overlooking the races at Cowes week. Gossipping a-plenty, she repeated this routine each summer. Eventually- when the RYS had deigned to let Ladies onto their lawn- and Rosa graciously allowed them 'conveniences' at her Ballroom- the RYS were persuaded to part with a very large sum in order to buy it from her.
She sounded like fun Em!

To end this case for Red Queenly appreciations- another paragraph from the same book;

Through the double doors of the Cavendish, painted Guardi green, past the porch where an enormous hooded leather chair stood like a monument, I found an Alice in Wonderland, Through the Looking Glass world that enchanted me, where the faster one ran the more one stayed in the same place. Here, Rosa reigned, both as Red and White Queen, with her 'off with his head' manner and ephemeral chateaux.

Three Cheers Emily!

A tout a l'heure,


your ever-loving Grand-mother,


GiGi xxx




Monday, 5 May 2014

Queens outside of Fashion

Dearest Emily,

Of course I don't mean Fashion in the strict sense we understand it today. As you well know Em, Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) is the accepted wearer of the crown of the 'Father of Haute Couture'. After Worth, the machine was beginning to grow- its engine kick-started by Mr Worth- of British birth who established himself in Paris.

As an admirer, I revel in his work- and that he took the former Artisanial trade of dressmaking into a higher Art. Here are just some fabulous pieces (dear Dame Vivienne- you liked them too-didn't you?)


What's more he dressed some fabulous women of that time. Sarah Bernhart being my favourite example- but also look at these lovely illustrations for designs for Princess Eugenie's Ball...


The above illustrations were for a Ball in the 1860's, and Worth changed the way the maker was treated. The norm until then was that the 'dressmaker' would be told what to make. Worth- told the women he dressed- how it was going to be, and his demand was so high- that he turned clients away too. 

Over in the British Isles, Fashionable Society was corseted, and crinolined and bonneted. The 'Illustrated London News' reported the latest Fashions. Still mostly using Dressmakers- it was often more about the latest fabric trend than a change of style, for example Tartan being a new fave after Prince Albert's love of Scotland. Ruffles, ribbons, trims, bows- here's how it was being reported in 1860.


However- cross the water to a 'remote British Isle', where Tennyson led the way for Julia Margaret Cameron to set up her 'Salon'-  and we're quite outside of fashion. Naturally- the seaside climate being breezy, the surroundings rural- and clothing- even for the mannered Victorian, needs to change a bit. Little jackets perhaps? Even a shawl or two. But surely not so different from everyone else. For to be a mid-Victorian was to conform- to be exactly the same as everyone else.
Unless you are Julia Margaret Cameron or one of the famed Pattle sisters. As we've discussed Em- they were cut from a different cloth. In London before Julia's marriage- at Little Holland House (Sarah Prinsep's salon) the sisters would spend hours together chatting in Hindi, French and English- cutting up lengths of brightly coloured Indian silks- and making shock-horror- dresses that had loose waists- to be worn without corsets- the shape defined only by a tasseled sash-cord. 

Julia herself- not considered a 'Beauty' wasn't known for her own vanity. Often her clothes were stained with photographic chemicals, and she preferred observing and 'arresting beauty' rather than being observed herself. Rushing here and there- remarks were made- 'Mrs Cameron in her funny openwork shawl', 'The men cheered (jeered?) as Mrs Cameron crossed the down in her bright coloured dress'.

We know her work best- as a pioneering close-up- portraits of famous men, the romantic staged 'Idylls' and dreamy studies of children.

But here- we see an example of something else- almost a 'fashion-plate' Em. It's a Carte de Visite about 1873 of Julia's niece May Prinsep. I've done a bit of 'colouring-in' of course- but it is an example that leads me to think Julia might have been a bit more interested in style of dress than I've been led to believe.


We'll never be lucky enough to know what was in Julia's 'dressing-up box' Em- there are clues in her photographs- but the sepia record doesn't afford what must have been a riot of texture and colour.

We can only guess what influence the colourful character that was Mrs Cameron- along with her sisters- had on their circle and descendents- especially those more Bohemian-who went on to establish the Bloomsbury Group.

It is fun imagining though Emily, but one thing is certain- she would not have shared your love of shocking pink!

Give Annabel a kiss- but don't squash her.

Your ever-loving Grand-mother, GiGi xxx


Saturday, 5 April 2014

Modelling for Mrs Cameron- May Prinsep

Dearest Emily,

Having a bit of fun looking at Julia's 'Models'- as though she was some kind of Victorian version of Vivienne Westwood...
Both ground-breaking forces of nature- similarities do abound, and it's an enjoyable view-point as it affords me a place to see where she got her own influences in 'designing' her artworks!

Here is my 'colouring-in' of the beautiful May Prinsep, after a photograph Mrs C took in 1866.


The lovely May, adopted by her Aunt and Uncle Sara and Thoby Prinsep, was great friends with little Maud Tennyson- daughter of Horatio- who lived at GiGi's house after his Wife died in 1868. May and Maud used to help Emily Tennyson with her copious daily correspondences concerning Alfred. Later she married Andrew Kitchin, and they moved to Monks House at Compton in Surrey- later introducing G.F Watts and his second Wife to the area- where the Watts Gallery stands to this day.

After Andrew died, May married Hallam Tennyson, and it was back to dear old Farringford, and as May Lady Tennyson, she lived until she died in 1931.

May's beautiful bone structure and limpid gaze, inspired our latter-day Vivienne Westwood in her artistry- and she featured in many of her works.

'Cenci' below, could owe some of its inspiration to Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring, don't you think Em?





Plagiarism? I think not Emily- more how the creative zeitgeist muse-moves in its inspirational ways. Rather like the way that the Pre-Raphaelites re-interpreted a theme they were drawn to- and the influences that interior decorations and furniture were garnered from favourite pre-loved childhood pieces.

Dear old Dodgson, constantly re-worked contemporary art and illustration for his literary and photographic works- it was good fun discovering those Emily.

With Julia- it's a whole new focus, one that involves her own unique aesthetic- and a journey to see how that in turn may be translated into the Bloomsbury Group.

A bit like how dear Vivienne loved Queenly design, a Punk attitude, and hair set in rollers. Hard to define at the time she did it- but instantly recognisable- and massively influencial.

Not too far away from what we know about Mrs C- eh?

Ta-ta for now Em,

your ever-loving Grand-mother,

GiGi xxx


Saturday, 29 March 2014

Modelling for Mrs Cameron; Virginia's Aunt.

Dearest Emily,

A few weeks ago, our lovely neighbouring Robin Hood of the Charity Shops hereabouts- had finished distributing her spoils amongst us all- and descended upon Dimbola with a rather fabulous chair. It was a pre-Arts and Crafts style of design- and rather Queen of Hearts too- to my rather biased eye.
I like chairs Em, I always imagine who chose them, and where they were, and who's favourite chair this was.
I can't show you this yet Em, because just as soon as Robina de Hood had rushed in with it- she rushed back out again to take it to be restored, prior to taking up residence at Dimbola- so we will have to wait a bit.

However, the owner of said piece of furniture is reputed to have been this lovely lady...


Julia Stephen (previously Duckworth- here in widows weeds) is photographed here by her namesake Aunt- our Julia Margaret Cameron in part of a session taken in 1874. This particular image from the session- I would like to think would be the one Mrs C chose as her best one (though actually it was out of focus, so I had to redraw the face for you.) But, Em- for me it's a good example of how directional our Julia really was- and what her vision of photography 'as an art-form' was aiming at. Look at the composition Em- way way way before Fashion photography- Julia Stephen certainly strikes a pose! Left hand on hip, with elegant fingers hitching up the side of her skirt, and right hand holding lorgnettes perhaps, accentuate a waisted taffeta dress and a blank, but suggestionably haughty stare.

When history then allows us the knowledge that this woman was Virginia Woolf's mother- it isn't a giant leap of faith to consider how much our colourful and ebullient Julia's influence shaped the Bloomsbury aesthetic. Oh, how I wish I could have seen Vanessa and Virginia's 'dressing up box'. Did they play with brightly coloured Indian silk dresses and shawls that belonged to their Great Aunts- the famed 'Pattle Sisters'?. Julia's fabulous, but frenetic legacy of pioneering photography doesn't allow us the vision of the colours she loved-or the style they all developed- but it's fun trying to find out Em- and increasingly the trail of influences lays backwards to the Freshwater Circle at the Bay here in the 1860's.

A lovely guest staying here at the house, said last night that after the third generation- people can cease to be 'people', and be seen merely as 'historical figures'. Luckily, for me- our Julia had such a strong personality- that it isn't simply her work that is intriguing. This lady was it seems- so 'different', 'eccentric', a 'genius', 'force of nature' and other descriptions- that she actually defied categorising, recording accurately, or understanding at the time.

So, with so much more to discover about her, her work- success and failure of essentially a life devoted to 'work in progress' on her art- it's a fascinating topic with ever-more fascinating subjects who either lived or visited the houses her and here-abouts...

Looking forwards to seeing you and Annabel in your new house in a few weeks time. I will bring you the Winnie the Pooh sticker book, and you can show me your lovely new bedroom,

Your ever-loving Grandmother,

GiGi xxx








Thursday, 20 March 2014

Absurd Queen's Wisdom

Dearest Emily,

In your new house that says 'Boo' and your new bedroom that says 'BAH', your Grandmother has some simple advice for you today...




Simples!

Your ever-loving Grandmother, GiGi xxx

(image artwork copyright mrsmiddleton.com 2014)

Saturday, 8 March 2014

Outside of Time

Dearest Emily,

I've been itching to make a T-shirt out of one of Julia Margaret Cameron's images for two years now, and had put the design aside for a while to get on with other stuff. Then, Uncle Joe was trawling through my iphoto for something or other- and said that there was a T-Shirt design 'that even he would wear'. Wondering how I'd made that 'grade'- I asked him which one he meant.

Turned out it was our good old 'Iago' of Angelo Collorozzi by Julia Margaret Cameron- (we've been there before on a blog-post Em.) What struck me anew this time was how the picture that got me into JMC's work- sported on the cover of Colin Fords fabulous book on Julia- was how definitive it is of her essence as a photographer. How half a dozen or so of her images are truly magnificent. And I think- rather than being 'haphazard' as she has often been described- I think that she knew exactly what she was aiming for and her own place in this new fangled 'art'. Still, I can't do Uncle Joe's T-shirt until the owner's either agree to let me- or don't. So, I've done a sketch for Joe's purposes.


Of course, we prefer the original Em, and I'm crossing my fingers that we'll be able to use it- but in the mean-time Uncle Joe will have his wish- and it'll be a prototype. Whilst drawing it- I was so reminded of how absolutely and utterly timeless were and are, some of Mrs Cameron's images- this being the easiest case in point.

I rest my case!

I hope you and Annabel are enjoying your new home- and can't wait to come and visit very soon...

Your ever-loving Grand-mother,

GiGi xxx